Teaching a puppy or a dog proper socialization skills is vital to the safety of both your dog and other dogs and people with whom he comes into contact. A properly socialized dog is a happy dog, and a joy to be around for both humans and animals. A poorly socialized dog, or one with no socialization at all, is a danger to other animals, other people and even his own family.

Socialization is best done when the puppy is as young as possible The socialization lessons a young puppy learns are difficult to undo, and it is important to remember that the socialization skills the puppy learns will affect his behavior for the rest of his life.

A dog that is properly socialized will be neither frightened of nor aggressive towards either animals or humans. A properly socialized dog will take each new experience and stimulus in stride, and not become fearful or aggressive. Dogs that are not properly socialized often bite because of fear, and such a dog can become a hazard and a liability to the family who owns it.

Improperly socialized dogs are also unable to adapt to new situations. A routine matter like a trip to the vets or to a friends house can quickly stress the dog out and lead to all sorts of problems.

Socialization is best done when the puppy is very young, perhaps around 12 weeks of age. Even after 12 weeks, however, it is important that the puppy continues its socialization in order to refine the all important social skills. It is possible to socialize an older puppy, but it is very difficult to achieve after the all important 12 week period has passed.

There are so definite do’s and don’t when it comes to properly socializing any puppy. Let’s start with what to do. Later in this article we will explore what to avoid.

Socialization Do’s

* Make each of the socialization events as pleasant and non-threatening for the puppy as possible. If a puppy’s first experience with any new experience is an unpleasant one, it will be very difficult to undo that in the puppy’s mind. In some cases, an early trauma can morph into a phobia that can last for a lifetime. It is better to take things slow and avoid having the puppy become frightened or injured.

* Try inviting your friends over to meet the new puppy. It is important to included as many different people as possible in the puppy’s circle of acquaintances, including men, women, children, adults, as well as people of many diverse ethnic backgrounds and ages.

* Also invite friendly and healthy dogs and puppies over to meet your puppy. It is important for the puppy to meet a wide variety of other animals, including cats, hamsters, rabbits and other animals he is likely to meet. It is of course important to make sure that all animals the puppy comes into contact with have received all necessary vaccinations.

* Take the puppy to many different places, including shopping centers, pet stores, parks, school playgrounds and on walks around the neighborhood. Try to expose the puppy to places where they will be crowds of people and lots of diverse activity going on.

* Take the puppy for frequent short rides in the car. During these rides, be sure to stop the car once in a while and let the puppy look out the window at the world outside.

* Introduce your puppy to a variety of items that may be unfamiliar. The puppy should be exposed to common items like bags, boxes, vacuum cleaners, umbrellas, hats, etc. that may be frightening to him. Allow and encourage the puppy to explore these items and see that he has nothing to fear from them.

* Get the puppy used to a variety of objects by rearranging familiar ones. Simply placing a chair upside down, or placing a table on its side, creates an object that your puppy will perceive as totally new.

* Get the puppy used to common procedures like being brushed, bathed, having the nails clipped, teeth cleaned, ears cleaned, etc. Your groomer and your veterinarian with thank you for this.

* Introduce the puppy to common things around the house, such as stairs. Also introduce the puppy to the collar and leash, so he will be comfortable with these items.

Socialization Don’ts

There are of course some things to avoid when socializing a puppy. These socialization don’ts include:

* Do not place the puppy on the ground when strange animals are present. An attack, or even a surprise inspection, by an unknown animal could traumatize the puppy and hurt his socialization.

* Do not inadvertently reward fear based behavior. When the puppy shows fear, it is normal to try to sooth it, but this could reinforce the fear based behavior and make it worse. Since biting is often a fear based behavior, reinforcing fear can create problems with biting.

* Do not force or rush the socialization process. It is important to allow the puppy to socialize at his own pace.

* Do not try to do too much too soon. Young puppies have short attention spans, and continuing lessons after that attention span has passed will be a waste of your time and your puppy’s.

* Do not wait too long to begin. There is a short window in which to begin the socialization process. A young puppy is a blank slate, and it is important to fill that slate with positive socialization skills as early as possible.

Brushing puppy teeth is an important step in developing a dental hygiene program for your dog. Owners must be consistent when cleaning teeth and gums to maintain and improve your puppy’s dental care. Between the age of 8 and 16 weeks is a great time to start brushing puppy teeth so they become comfortable with cleaning and develop healthy teeth and gums early.

1. The first thing you will need to care for your puppy’s teeth is the right toothpaste. Human toothpaste can make dogs sick and should never be used. Buy toothpaste made for dogs and put a small amount on your finger. Allow your puppy to smell and lick the toothpaste, which usually comes in meat flavors.
2. Puppies can be squirmy so have someone restrain the dog on a table or flat surface while you clean his teeth. Lay the dog on his stomach or side while holding his collar or harness, or try lifting and holding his rear leg and collar while he is standing so he can’t move around.
3. Gently move your finger around his gums and teeth with no toothpaste. Do this for a short amount of time and give your puppy a treat for behaving. Gradually you will lengthen the time you perform this exercise. Add toothpaste the next time you try and clean his mouth. If you have a dog toothbrush, show your puppy the brush and let him see it and lick it.
4. If your puppy nips at your finger, make a loud shriek to discourage biting.
5. Once your puppy is comfortable with your finger in his mouth, you can start brushing or continue to use your fingers. Start with the top teeth at the back of the mouth. Lift his lip to see where you are brushing and use circular motions along the gum line and front of the teeth. The inside of the teeth are less important to clean.
6. Gradually move the brush or your finger around to the front teeth and then again towards the back of the mouth on the other side. Look for any inflammation, cuts, damaged teeth or tartar buildup. Pay close attention to the back teeth where the most buildup and dental problems can be found.
7. Give your dog a special treat and praise him after brushing his teeth.
8. Brush your puppy’s teeth every day, making sure not to go on for too long of a time. Prolonged teeth cleaning sessions will bore your dog and will make him less willing to cooperate when it’s time to brush his teeth again.

Finger combs or brushes are a great for brushing, especially after performing the initial practice cleaning sessions. The combs slide over your finger and allow you to get around your dog’s mouth easily and safely. Dog toothbrushes are also available and come in all sizes and shapes to suit your breed and size of dog. Infant or children’s toothbrushes can also be used for puppies and dogs with small mouths. The bristles should be soft so make sure to change your dog’s toothbrush often as it gets worn down and rough.

Unfortunately, eliminating problem behaviors is one thing that most dog owners eventually face. Here we will focus on a few of the most commonly encountered behavior problems.

Problem #1 – Jumping up on people

One of the most frequently cited problems with dogs is that of jumping up on people. Unfortunately, this is one of those behaviors that is often inadvertently encouraged by well meaning
owners. After all, it is cute and adorable when that little 10
pound puppy jumps up on you, your family members and your
friends. Many people reward this behavior on the part of a small
puppy with kisses and treats.

This is a huge mistake, however, since that cute little puppy
may soon become a full grown dog who could weigh well in excess
of 100 pounds. Suddenly that cute jumping behavior is no longer
quite so cute.

In addition to being annoying, jumping up on people can be
dangerous as well. A large, heavy dog, jumping enthusiastically,
can easily knock over a child or an older or handicapped adult.
In today’s litigious society, such an incident could easily make
you, as the dog’s owner, the subject of an unwanted lawsuit.

The time to teach a dog that jumping up on people is
unacceptable is when he is still young and easy to handle.
Retraining a dog that has been allowed to jump up on people can
be difficult for the owner, and confusing for the dog.

When the puppy tries to jump on you or another member of your
family, gently but firmly place the puppy’s feet back on the
floor. After the puppy is standing firmly on the floor, be sure
to reward and praise him.

It is important for every member of the family, as well as
frequently visiting friends, to understand this rule and follow
it religiously. If one member of the family reprimands the dog
for jumping and another praises him, the dog will be
understandably confused. As with other dog training issues,
consistency is the key to teaching the dog that jumping is
always inappropriate.

When praising and rewarding the dog for staying down, it is
important for the trainer to get down on the dog’s level. Giving
affection and praise at eye level with the puppy is a great way
to reinforce the lesson.

The reason puppies and older dogs jump on people is obvious -
they are excited and happy to see them. Many people are
reluctant to discourage this exuberant behavior, but it is
important to redirect that happiness and energy in other ways.
Many well meaning owners, family members and friends
inadvertently encourage this jumping up behavior by picking the
puppy up, kissing it or otherwise providing encouragement.

One way to redirect the dog’s happiness and excited ness from
jumping is to teach him to lift his paw when greeting you. This
”shaking hands” posture is an acceptable way for the dog to show
his happiness and his respect. Many people even teach their dogs
to do simple tricks, like rolling over, instead of jumping on
people.

Problem #2 – Pulling and tugging at the leash

Pulling on the leash is another problem trait that many puppies
pick up. Unfortunately, this behavior is also one that is
sometimes encouraged by well meaning owners. Playing games like
tug of war with the leash, or even with a rope (that can look
like the leash to the dog) can unwittingly encourage a problem
behavior.

The use of a quality body harness can be a big help when
training a puppy not to pull, or retraining a dog that has
picked up the habit of pulling on the leash. Try training the
puppy to accept the body harness the same way it accepts the
regular buckle collar.

When walking with your dog, try using a lure or toy to encourage
the dog to remain at your side. A training collar, when properly
used, can also be a good training tool for a problem dog.

When 
using a training collar or choke chain, however, it is very
important to fit it correctly, and to use a size that is neither
too big nor too small for your dog.

When walking with your puppy, it is important to keep the leash
loose at all times. If the puppy begins to pull ahead, the
handler should quickly change directions so that the puppy fast
finds itself falling behind. It is important to reverse
directions before the puppy has reached the end of the leash.

The leash should stay loose except for the split second it takes
the handler to reverse direction. It is important to use a quick
tug, followed by an immediate slackening of the leash.

When training a puppy, it is important to never let the puppy
pull you around. Training the puppy to walk properly while he or
she is still small enough to handle is absolutely vital,
especially when dealing with a large breed of dog. If your 150
pound Great Dane hasn’t learned to walk properly while he or she
is still a 20 pound puppy, chances are it never will.
It is important not to yank or pull on the puppy’s neck when
correcting him. A gentle, steady pressure will work much better
than a hard yank. The best strategy is to use the least amount
of pressure possible to achieve the desired result.

Problem #3 – Escaping and roaming the neighborhood

A responsible dog owner would never dream of allowing his or her
dog to roam the neighborhood freely. Allowing a dog to roam on
its own is irresponsible, dangerous (to the dog and the
neighborhood), and probably even illegal. Most towns have
ordinances which prohibit dogs from being allowed to roam around
free, so you could be in legal trouble if your dog is found
wandering the neighborhood unattended.

Of course sometimes that wandering dog is not the owner’s idea,
and many dogs perform amazing feats of escape when left on their
own. The temptations for unattended dogs are many, including
passing bicycles, joggers, children, cats and other dogs. It is
much easier to prevent escapes than to recapture a loose dog, so
let’s talk about some preventative measures every dog owner can
take.

Removing the motivation to escape is a big part of the solution.
A bored dog is much more likely to spend his day plotting the
great escape. A dog that is surrounded by everything he or she
needs, like lots of toys, a soft bed, and plenty of fresh clean,
water, is more likely to spend his or her day contentedly
sleeping or playing with toys until the owner returns.

In addition, a dog with lots of pent up, unused energy is likely
to try to escape. Try incorporating several vigorous play
sessions with your dog into your daily routine. Make one of
those play sessions right before you leave. If your dog has a
chance to work of his or her energy, chances are he or she will
sleep or relax much of the day.

Of course dealing with the dog is only half the problem. It is
also important to make the property as escape proof as possible,
through proper fencing and other measures. For dogs that dig, it
may be necessary to extend the fence underground by placing
metal stakes in the ground every few feet. For dogs that jump,
it may be necessary to make the fence higher. And if none of
these measures work, it may be necessary to confine the dog to
the house when you are not at home.

Make you puppy training easier and more fun by understanding that your puppy is trying to communicate with you in other ways than barking or wagging his tail. Remember, your puppy also communicates with his ears, tail, paws, mouth and more and your puppy training and everyday life with your dog will be much more fun.

Here is a short guide to some basic dog body language and what it means:

Dominant – You’ll find that a dominant dog has its ears straight up or forward, its mouth slightly opened or closed, its eyes open wide or staring, its body standing stiff and tall with hackles possibly raised, and its tail out from the body stiffened or fluffed. A low and assertive bark can often be expected.

Friendly – A friendly dog has perked up ears, open and alert eyes, a relaxed mouth, a tail or whole rear end wagging, and possibly whimpering, yapping or giving short barks.

Playful - A bow position with wagging tail means “let’s play.”

Submissive – A dog with its ears tightly back, eyes closed and paw raised is showing extreme submission. The dog isn’t happy but shows it will not attack.

Aggressive – An aggressive dog has its ears flattened back against its head, its eyes narrowed or challenging, body tense, mouth open to show teeth and tail held out from the body and fluffed up if possible. Snarls or growls are typical.

Worried – Sharp barks combined with growling, ears flattened and neck hairs raised means “I’m worried” or “something is wrong.”

Fear – A dog shows fear with a lowered stance, tail down or tucked underneath, an arched back, looking or turning head whilst showing the whites of their whites of eyes and dilated pupils. Dogs often bark out of fear, especially if they are cornered, fenced in, or on a leash.

Stressed - A stressed dog will often have ears back and down, a wide open mouth, lips drawn back with rapid respiration. Also shoulders lowered, hunched forward, tail tucked, tension in haunches and will probably be trembling.

Now that you understand more about what your puppy is trying to say to you about how he feels or the mood he is in try to accommodate this in your puppy training and everyday life.

In a puppy training session your dog should be showing that he is in a friendly or playful mood. If he shows he is dominant then you know that he may not be taking you seriously or could be being stubborn and you probably need to be more assertive.

Some submissive behaviour is not a bad thing as it means that that he understands that you are in charge.

If your puppy becomes stressed, fearful, worried or even aggressive, you must stop your training and reassure your dog immediately. If you have been training for more than 15 minutes stop and take a break. When you come back takes things more slowly or approach things in a different way.

Use your knowledge in every day life too. Observe your puppy in different situations and you will quickly discover what he likes and dislikes or how he is feeling. You can then take steps to give him more of what he enjoys and more support, confidence and training in situations he finds more difficult.

-Richard Cussons

About The Author:

Richard Cussons is a dog lover with a passion for helping people with their dogs.
Discover more about puppy training and care here

Puppies are eager and willing to do the right thing. They love your happy face and the squealy noises you make when they have done something great. They will do ANYthing to please you because of the loving rewards they get from being a Good Dog.

They just cannot get enough of your praises and cuddles.

Moving towards “What a good dog!” from “Bad Puppy!” is based on one thing. Your puppy does not know the English language, and the faster he learns it, the better for all, because the minute
he knows what you want he will DO it. Make it faster and easier for him to learn by keeping these tips in mind:

1. Be consistent in the words you choose to teach him commands. If you say, “Wanna go potty?” in the morning, and “Have to go out?” two hours later, and “Wanna go pee?” two hours later, etc., then that is THREE phrases you have asked him to learn in one day instead of only one. Decide which words to use, and make sure everyone in your family uses the same ones.

2. Use his name in the command if you want action, do NOT use it if you want him restricted from action. This is very important. Hearing his own name makes a puppy leap into action by his very nature. When you want your puppy to come, say, “Puppy, Come!” When you want him to lie down, simply say, “Down”.

3. Do not confuse your puppy with the same words for different commands. If you are teaching him basic obedience, the word “Down” means LIE down, usually followed by “Stay.” If you don’t want him on the couch, do not say “Down”, say, “Off.” This word can be used to keep him from jumping up into your lap, onto the couch, chair or bed because it is the ACTION of jumping up you are trying to restrict. Saying “Down” when he jumps onto the couch will just make him lie down on the couch! See the difference?

Do not ever hit your puppy, you dont need to. The worst punishment he ever needs to learn a lesson is your sad frown and walking away from him. One or two minutes is the limit though, do not overdo this. After a minute of ignoring him, give a command he knows well and praise praise praise, with a big smile.

These three tips, used with gentleness and consistency, will teach your puppy all the words he needs to know to be a happy and obedient companion in a matter of days.

About the author:
Dy Witt

Bringing home a new puppy is always an exciting time for the entire family. Getting that new puppy off the right start with proper training is very important to making that puppy a valued member of his human family. There are a number of talents that every new puppy must master, including going up and down the stairs, and how to accept a new collar as if she’s worn it her entire life.

It is best to introduce a new puppy to the household when everyone in the family is present, and when the household is as calm as possible. That is why animal care experts discourage parents from giving puppies and kittens as holiday presents.

The holiday season is typically much too busy, with far too many distractions, for a young puppy or kitten to get the attention it needs. It is best to wait until the holidays have passed before introducing the new family member.

Once the puppy is part of the household, there are some things he or she will need to learn. One of the first challenges of a multi-story home will be learning to climb up and down the stair. Many puppies are afraid of stairs, and that usually means that they do not know how to climb them properly.

It is important for the puppy’s owner to slowly build the confidence of the dog, starting off at the bottom of the stairs. In general, a wide stairway will probably be less frightening to the puppy.

To build confidence, the owner should go up the first step, then encourage the puppy to join them, using their voice, treats or a toy. After the puppy has joined you on the first stair, go back down and repeat the process until the puppy will go up that step on his own. It is important to build confidence slowly and not rush the process. Taking a one step at a time approach is the best way to teach the puppy to not be afraid of stairs.

Another thing every new puppy must learn is how to accept the collar. Learning to wear a collar is important to every dog, but many puppies are baffled, frightened and bewildered by this new
piece of equipment. Many puppies constantly try to remove their new collar by pawing and pulling at it.

Fit is important when choosing a collar for your new puppy. A properly fitted collar, chosen for your puppy’s size, is more likely to be comfortable and accepted. While choke collars, slip collars and training collars can be good training aids, they should never be used as a substitute for a sturdy buckle type collar. And of course that collar should have an identification tag and license attached. This identification will be vital in having your puppy returned if she becomes separated from you.

The best way to introduce the puppy to the collar is to simply put the collar on and allow her to squirm, jump, roll and paw at the color to her heart’s content. It is important to not encourage this behavior by trying to soothe the puppy, but it is just as important not to punish or reprimand the puppy.

The best strategy is to simply ignore the puppy and them her work through her issues with the collar on her own. Introducing distractions, such as food, toys or playing, is a good way to get the puppy used to the color. Getting the puppy to play, eat and drink while wearing the collar is a great way to get her used to it. After a few days, most puppies will not even know they are wearing a collar.

House training a puppy is important for the well being of your puppy and for your own sanity. The lack of house training is the number one reason that dogs wind up neglected, abandoned, or in animal shelters, but it’s the failure of the owner – not the puppy.

It’s very important for you to house break your puppy properly.  Proper toilet habits need to be established when your puppy is young, since these habits can last a lifetime, and are very hard
to break once they’re established. In most cases, true house training can’t begin until your puppy is six months old because puppies younger than that probably lack the bowel and bladder control needed for true house training.

Before they reach that age, puppies should be confined to a small, puppy proofed room during those times when you can’t supervise them. Puppy proofing a room is very similar to baby proofing a room. Just as you would put breakables and possible choking hazards out of reach of a baby, you need to eliminate the potential for your puppy to make a mistake and reduce any potential hazards from the room. That includes removing anything that your puppy might chew on.

The entire floor of the room should be covered with newspaper or some other absorbent material, and the paper should be changed every time it is soiled. Over time, you will notice that your puppy has a preferred spot for using the toilet. Gradually begin reducing the amount of paper you put down – narrowing in on that preferred area.

This preferred toilet area will form the basis of later house training and once your puppy is old enough you’ll begin to train him to exercise bladder and bowel control. You will establish a new toilet area (outside) and begin to train him to control himself until taken outside to the toilet area.

The Do’s of House Training Your Puppy

* When you’re not at home or can’t supervise your puppy, you must be sure the puppy can’t make a mistake. Confine your puppy to a small area that has been thoroughly puppy proofed. Make sure your puppy has unrestricted access to the established toilet area

* When you’re home, physically take the puppy to the toilet area every 45 minutes. Extend the time between potty trips gradually, as your puppy exhibits an ability to control his urges.

* Always provide a toilet area that doesn’t resemble normal floor coverings in your home. Training your puppy to go on concrete, blacktop, grass or dirt is a good idea.

* Reward your puppy every time he eliminates in the established toilet area. You want him to associate relieving himself in the established areas with good things, like treats, toys and praise. A little play time makes a good reward, and will reinforce the early bonding between you and your puppy.

* Keep a set schedule when feeding your puppy, so that your puppy’s need to relieve himself becomes consistent. Provide constant access to fresh, clean drinking water.

* Keeping your puppy in a crate can help your puppy develop self control. Dogs don’t like to soil their immediate living area, and will naturally try to control their need to go.

* It’s important to be patient when house training your puppy. The process of house training could take several months, but it’s much easier to house train right the first time than to retrain a problem dog.

The Don’ts of House Training Your Puppy

* Don’t give your puppy the run of the house until he has been thoroughly house trained.

* but… Don’t totally isolate your puppy while house training, either. Your puppy needs attention and interaction from you.

* Never reprimand or punish your puppy for mistakes. That only leads to fear and confusion in your puppy and will make the process take longer.

* Don’t leave food out all night as your puppy won’t keep to a set feeding schedule on its own, and will eat throughout the night. Random feeding leads to random toilet habits.

House training isn’t always the easiest thing to do, and some dogs are much harder to house train than others. It’s important to be patient, consistent and loving as you train your dog. A rushed, frightened or intimidated dog will be confused and won’t be able to learn the his house training lessons. Once you’ve gained your puppy’s love and respect, you’ll find that house training your puppy is actually easier than you expected.

About the author:
Brandon Layne

If you have decided that you will feed your dog or puppy prepared dog food or prepared puppy food, then your next decision is what type of food should you be feeding your puppy?

You will need to do some research on the prepared puppy foods available if you decide not to pursue feeding puppy a raw food meal.

Become a label reader. The higher priced puppy foods will usually come from a company that is or has conducted extensive research on providing the best nutritional food to your puppy.

So a rule of thumb is that the inexpensive stuff is not going to be as good as the more expensive puppy foods.

Do not buy any puppy food or dog food that lists a starch or sugar in the first four ingredients. You want a premium puppy food that lists a protein source as one of the first two ingredients. (As a note based on recent studies into human nutrition, do not have that source be soy-based.)

Providing carbohydrates in the form of green vegetables when puppy feeding is quite all right. Even raw foods advocates add some non-starchy vegetables to the dog food they mix. So this is an ingredient you may expect to find on some puppy food labels. However, animal nutritionists have found dogs derive no nutrtional value from carbs such as sugar and starches even if many dogs foods are 50% or better carbohydrates. Carbs are less expensive than protein sources, generally, and are used as fillers in dog good.

As canned puppy and dog food can be as much as 75% water, we are mostly discussing dry puppy food mixes. Canned preparations are not cheap so you are paying a lot for water. Best to use a premium dry puppy food and add to it.

A suggested menu is the dry puppy food with a little canned dog food, which is mostly meat, and moistened with a little warm water. Usually, canned puppy food will have enough fat for the puppy as well. A couple times a week, you might replace the meat with some cottage cheese or a cooked egg. Some trainers who have raised dogs for a very long time even suggest adding a
tablespoon of yogurt with live culture a couple times a week.

Less than six months, feed three times a day when puppy feeding and then go down to two times a day. Give your puppy about 15 minutes to eat his food and then remove and refrigerate it. At the next feeding warm it up before feeding puppy. The 15 minutes goes to your puppy training efforts as you can read in other articles.

As your puppy develops over the next few months up to his first birthday when he should start on dog food as appropriate for him, keep an eye on him. Be aware of over feeding your puppy and beware of him growing too fast. It is possible for a puppy to be growing too fast and this can impact his health, so double check his growth with your veterinarian.

Copyright 2005, Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

Atopic dermatitis is a known allergic skin disease in dogs. This is usually caused by the hypersensitivity of the dog’s immune system to ordinary substances that can be found in the environment like molds or dust mites.

Usually, a dog is said to be suffering from atopic dermatitis when the dog begins to excessively lick and chew its paws, licking the abdomen and its rear feet.

Atopic dermatitis can be seen as a saliva staining found in the armpits, between the toes of the paws, and in the groin. In light-colored canines, atopic dermatitis can be seen as a red-brown stain found on the same parts that were mentioned.

It is a well-known fact that dogs are usually infected with fleas. However, what most people do not know is that they can get allergies through these fleas, too.

Well, it is not the fleas that actually cause the allergic reactions in dogs but the flea’s saliva. Hence, it is important for the dog to undergo a skin allergy examination so as to determine if a particular dog is sensitive to flea saliva.

In the event that the dog is allergic to flea saliva, it would be better for the owner to implement a rigorous flea control or flea eradication treatment in order to lessen the allergic reactions. Though, it must be kept in mind that solutions that are used in flea control should be safe for the dog.